Quilted Recycled Sweater Baby Blanket

So in between all the chaos that is my life over the past few weeks, and a house full of sick children and husband this past week, I somehow managed to make another quilted recycled sweater baby blanket. I found this adorable cotton print with brown bears on a lime green background and used that as my backing fabric.

I chose the softest wool and cashmeres in green, browns and winter white that coordinated nicely with the backing fabric from my boxes of felted thrift store sweaters. If I didn’t have enough left of a sweater to make a full 6″ x 6″ square, I would make one 6″ x 3-1/4″, and with these smaller pieces I would piece two sweaters together to make a combination quilt square that I mixed in amongst the larger solid squares.

I made rows of the sweaters as wide as I needed for the quilt, moving on to the next one only after I finished the one before it. That way I could line all the completed rows in the proper order and determine which color squares would go best where. When all my rows were complete I sewed them all together to make the finished quilt.

Finished Quilt Top

The backside of the finished quilt top.

I machine washed the finished quilt top on the gentle cycle with Woolite and machine dried it on the warm setting. The pieces get all stretched out from cutting, sewing and ironing and I wanted to make sure I was working with a properly sized quilt before putting on the batting and backing fabric.

Washed and dried quilt ready for finishing.

I put a layer of cotton quilt batting in between the sweater and the cotton.

Cotton quilt batting layered between the sweater quilt and the cotton fabric backing.

The finished quilt.

I think part of the charm of these recycled sweater quilts is that they aren’t perfect. You can see that mine is not a perfect square when it was all finished, but it’s really soft and cuddly and destined to be some child’s favorite blanket.

And remarkably, I’ve actually managed to put this quilt and the slightly larger lap quilt I made in December up for sale in my Etsy shop!

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Fabric Covered Bulletin Board – With A Twist

I’ve been in the middle of a major office/workspace reorganization and cleanup, which is one of the reasons I haven’t posted too much this past week. I’m almost done, and I’ll show you the terrific results when I am, but in the meantime I wanted to share these fabric covered bulletin boards I made to help keep me organized.

I’ve made a bunch of these over the years, but this time I came up with a new twist: I screwed some sheet metal I cut to size onto the plywood, which makes the top 2/3 (or however much you want) of the board magnetized!

What I love about bulletin boards like these is you can make them to exactly the size that you need. I happened to have the outside of two built-in bookcases available, which will be right between where I plan on putting my new worktable. Because of this available space, the boards I needed to make were long and skinny – 42″ long by 10-1/2″ wide to be exact. I found a cute contemporary floral I loved. That it didn’t go with my curtains didn’t really bother me, as after almost 14 years of living with these curtains I’m so sick of them I could scream.

This is one of those projects that if you’re making one, you may as well just get a little bit extra fabric, ribbon and board and make another one too — give one as a gift, make one for your kids — but maybe that’s just me.

What you’ll need:

  • Plywood cut to the size you need
  • Enough fabric to completely cover your board, so add about 3″ on all 4 sides to your board measurement to get the size of the fabric piece you’ll need.
  • Sheet metal (I got a 12″x24″ sheet of zinc metal at Home Depot for $6.97)
  • Large saw-tooth picture hanger
  • Sheet quilting batting (I used cotton)
  • Gro-Grain ribbon – you’re going to have to measure to see how much you’ll need, and this will depend on how you space your X’s.
  • Fabric marking chalk or pencil
  • Decorative upholstery nails to tack down the ribbon at it’s center-point
  • Staple gun with 1/2″ staples
  • Hammer
  • Scissors
  • Screwdriver

Cut the plywood to the size board you want. Maybe Rachel Garza (my fellow County Living Blue Ribbon Blogger Award winner) and I should get together and do a “women and power tools” ad for Craftsman or something?

I clamped my sheet metal onto the board exactly where I wanted it, drew a line with a sharpie to aid in my cutting, and used a hacksaw to cut it to the proper size. I did this over my sink so as not to get metal fragments anywhere. Clamping or taping the metal to a board just gives it a solid surface to cut on and will make your cutting much easier.

Drill holes in the corners of the sheet metal and screw metal sheet to plywood. My screws were too long, so I used my hacksaw to cut the backs off.

If you are using sheet metal on your board, you’ll need to mark off ribbon placement and drill center hole before covering with the batting and fabric. Use a small drill bit just barely the size of your upholstery nail shank, but drill all the way through to the back of the board, as you’ll need this hole later to find the correct corner spot for the upholstery nail of the front of your board. If you try and drill the center hole once the fabric is on you run a great risk of pulling or ripping the fabric with the drill. As you can see here, I played around a bit with my placement before finally marking it off in 4 equal distances, making it only one “X” wide. If you have a wider board you will cross-cross several times across it.

Mark off ribbon placement and drill center hole before covering with the batting and fabric.

Cut your quilting batting so that it’s about 2″ larger than the wood on all 4 sides. To make sure the magnets still work through the batting, I used a single layer of batting over the sheet metal and a double layer over the plain wood area. Learn from my mistakes — the first one I made I used a double layer over the whole board, and magnets aren’t strong enough to work through 2 layers. Pull the batting tight as your work around the board, stapling the batting to the wood every 5 inches or so. Hammer staples all the way down if necessary.

Cut quilting batting so that there is a single layer over the sheet metal area and a double layer over the plain wood.

Pull the batting tight as your work around the board, stapling the batting to the wood every 5 inches or so. Hammer staples all the way down if necessary.

Now your board is ready to cover with the fabric.

I used some Heat-n-Bond iron on hem tape to give the fabric a quick hem all around. This not only makes it look neater on the backside, but also give the staples more fabric to  hold on to as you are stapling the fabric to the board.

Use Heat-n-Bond to give your fabric a quick hem all around.

Place your hemmed and ironed fabric with the right side facing down on your work surface and lay your board, right side down, on top of the fabric. Starting at the top and bottom, pull your fabric taught, but not so tight that you stretch out the pattern of the print, and using your staple gun, staple it every few inches to the back of the board. Hammer the staples in completely if necessary.

Pulling the fabric taught, staple the fabric to the back of the board.

And now for the ribbon. Using fabric marking chalk, mark the measurements on your fabric that you determined earlier, top, bottom and center “X” of your squares. You can check to see if you’re measurements are accurate by inserting a needle through the back of the board through to the front in the drill holes that you made at the center “X” positions on the sheet metal earlier. Fold ribbon over at the end to double it at the staple point, staple it to the back side of the board. Pulling ribbon tight and sticking to the chalked marking lines, fold ribbon over and staple the end down on the backside of the board. Repeat with the next ribbon to complete the X. Continue as above with all of your marked squares.

Now to put the upholstery tacks in the center “X” of the ribbons. Use a needle through the back of the board if you need to. Hammer in your upholstery tacks. If you find it’s not tight because of the pre-drilled hole, you can put a little glue on the shank of the tack, nail it back in, and put something heavy on it while the glue dries. I had to do this.

Nail on a large saw-tooth picture hanger onto the back near the top of the board, and you’re done!

As a final note, I had these cute magnets that I’d bought ages ago and finally could use, but they had weak magnets that didn’t work on this board. I found these “amazingly strong” magnets on clearance at Restoration Hardware, and glued two onto the backs of the magnets and now they work great. You can find super-strong magnets at lots of places and online if you run into the same situation.

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Fabric Covered Retro Suitcase

My stepmom has been diligently working at cleaning up their lives and getting rid of things. Simplifying. Not leaving piles of unnecessary things for the kids to go through some day. While slightly morbid to think about, it’s completely practical. Having to clean out my aunt Eleanor’s estate a few years ago with my sister, whom I don’t think ever threw a thing out in her entire life, I can appreciate this philosophy.

As a part of this purging she brought over two old suitcases for me to look at. One I decided to keep, and the other I told her to continue on to the junkyard with.

I had seen a pin on Pinterest recently of a really cute retro suitcase and I thought I could do something similar to this one.

As I’m sitting here writing this post, I went onto Pinterest to find the photo on my board, and clicked through to the link for the first time. It was on a cute blog called Sew Can Do. She did it a little differently, but the end result seemed to be the same. I think her suitcase was a little cooler than mine was, and her fabric was terrific. She used Modge Podge to adhere the fabric to the case, and also sealed it with matte Modge Podge. This is a great idea and I think I’m going to do that tonight to mine.

First I cleaned the suitcase up using 409 cleaner. Then I roughly measured fabric for the front, back, and sides and ironed on a medium-weight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Then I used some craft paper and drew a pattern for the top and bottom. These were the easy parts. The sides were much more difficult because of all the hardware. I used Beacon Adhesives Fabri-Tac glue to adhere the fabric to the suitcase.

I thought it came out great. It’s a cute way to store things, or maybe even use it as a suitcase again? I’d be the most stylish person at the airport.

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Recycled Sweater Chicken

I got this pattern directly from Martha Stewart’s website. It was really easy to make using an old sweater that I felted in the washing machine. The directions appeared to be wrong; they said to enlarge the pattern 400% to make a 5″ tall chicken. When I enlarged the pattern that much I would have had an enormous,  turkey-sized chicken. I think I enlarged it 200%, although it may have been a little higher, and in the end and the chicken is 9″ tall and 12″ long. I’m also not exactly sure what that thing hanging down under his beak/chin is supposed to be, or why the heck mine is so enormous and the one in her photos is tiny when I used her pattern?  Chickens don’t really have wattles like a turkey, but that’s kinda what it looks like. I also added some embroidery to it: eyes and some wing details. I’m going to try making another one some day with different colored sweaters, maybe red for the comb, yellow for the beak and white for the body? It’s also fun to play with textures, as I did for the comb but you could also do for the wings — ribbed or cabled.

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Upcycled Sweater Dress

So my collection of sweaters that I’ve been hoarding from local thrift stores was getting a little bit out of hand, and with the confidence of my Quilted Sweater Baby Blanket under my belt, I decided to tackle something that I could wear.

I am extremely fortunate to have an overlock machine. I had to sew a lot of years before I felt I could justify this machine. Now that I have it, I absolutely love it. Doing this project without one of these is not impossible. You could use a straight stitch on a sewing machine and just do a double or triple row of stitches. In the  The photo on right on the bottom is what the top of an overlock stitch looks like — 3 rows of straight stitches. The top two rows of stitches in the photo on right show the underside of an overlock stitch looks like.

I don’t normally wear a ton of black or white, but I have been wearing a lot of grey lately. Mostly grey T-shirts, which makes me look a bit like a auto mechanic I suspect, but fashion and style have never been my strong suit. When I was going through the boxes of felted sweaters though, what was jumping out at me were all the black, grey and white sweaters, so that’s what I decided to go with. I had a beautiful cable-knit winter-white turtleneck sweater that had some moth holes in the sleeves. I decided this would be the “trunk” of the design. I really had no pre-conceived ideas about what this was going to end up looking like and took each section as it came. I will say that having this old dress form that was my sisters back when she was a sweater designed made it so much easier to work on.

First I removed the turtleneck. It is my personal opinion that nobody over the age of 40 should be wearing a turtleneck — too much risk for Muffin Top Chicken Neck. Nobody wants to see that, but that’s just my personal opinion.

I pieced a few pieces of turtlenecks and sweater pieces to combine this open collar.

I don’t know if this sweater would have fit me before I felted it, as I purchased it at the local Goodwill thrift store, but it certainly was a little snug after being felted in the washing machine. I decided the best way to expand it was to add panels under the arms.

Since I didn’t have one piece of sweater long enough to make it the final length that I wanted, I added an additional length of some white sweater from the original sweater, but I used some of the turtleneck rib on one side and the arm cable on the other side.

Then I had to piece together some sweaters to form some length on the bottom front. Rather than have straight up-and-down strips, I decided to add some pieces cut a bit on the diagonal for interest and to give it a slight flare.

Then I got to work on the sleeves. I had these soft beautiful black sleeves from a sweater, but usual, once they’d been felted they’d never fit over my arms, and were also too short. More inserts would be required to expand the sleeve.

Now that I knew generally what the sleeves were going to look like, I could finish up the back. I didn’t want to make it exactly like the front.

And then I’d needed to lengthen the sleeves. First I added some of the winter white ribbed sweater as a modified cuff, and then I added a slightly flared lower cuff from an old ski sweater of mine. I purposely made this cuff come to a slight point.

But I still didn’t think it was long enough, even though I planned on wearing it with boots and leggings. I added some more length with smaller, shorter sweater pieces.

While I was in Austin recently I found these great embroidery patterns by a local company called Sublime Stitching. When I got home I checked out their website, and ordered these adorable sewing labels. Check out their really unique embroidery patterns and other stuff. I thought this project deserved this special label.

I finished the bottom by finishing the bottom with my overlock machine, but you could use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch too. Then I pressed a 1-inch hem and used my regular sewing machine and a blind hem stitch. I was so thrilled with how it turned out that I wore it today when we packed all the kids in the car and headed up to Millbrook, New York for the day.

Finished Sweater Front

Finished Sweater Back

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New Linoleum Print Cards

I had been too busy driving around the South and getting ready for Christmas in Wyoming lately to get any linoleum prints done, but while on vacation I did manage to do a few.

An elk in the aspen trees for the Wyoming Wildlife series.

A moose wading in the water for the Wyoming Wildlife series.

Another farm for the Farmhouse series of cards. I didn’t think I was going to like this one, but once I printed it I really did like it.

A Japanese bantam rooster for the Rooster series.

And I love this print of a carton of my eggs. I also chose to print these on brown craft stock cards, which I think are perfect for them. I think this will have to start a new series of some sort.

And lastly, I attempted a self portrait. It’s not very good and I think it either needs to go in the garbage or have some more work done to it. The hair and ears came out pretty good, but the face…Lordy was that hard!

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Creatively Repairing Moth Holes

This fall when I was taking my winter clothes down from the attic, one of my favorite cashmere cardigans I discovered had quite a few moth holes in it. I’d had it for a few years, and it was a little big on me since I’d lost some of the weight I’d been carrying around for a while, but it was still a nice cashmere sweater that was great for every day wear. Nobody would ever accuse me of being fashionable, but I do try and draw the line at walking around with moth holes in my sweaters.

Maybe because I’d recently finished making my Quilted Sweater Blanket, it occurred to me that I could cover those moth holes creatively and still get plenty of use from the sweater. I gathered up some of those felted sweater scraps I had and got to work. I decided to use varying sizes of circles, but you could use any shape you wanted. I used a small straight stitch on my sewing machine and went around each circle several times overlapping the stitched circles a bit just because I liked the way it looked. You could also use a small zig-zag stitch if you wanted. I covered the moth holes first, and then I added more circles around some of the first circles for decoration. I also thought doing this on some of them would keep it from looking like what it was (patches covering moth holes), and more like a fashion statement.

If you’re not me and don’t have boxes of felted sweaters hoarded in your basement for times like these, then go down to your local thrift store, or to your own closet, and get some sweaters that
a) don’t fit anymore
b) have moth holes in them and you don’t care to save the sweater
c) you accidentally washed it and ruined it (in this case the sweater is felted already and your job is done).
Throw the sweaters into the washing machine and then into the dryer. You may have to do this a few times, especially with cashmere or blended sweaters to get a good felted sweater. Once your sweater is felted, you can cut the material and you don’t have to worry about it unravelling on you. The felting process binds the fibers together. This process only works on natural fiber sweaters. Wool works the best, but you can use wool blends as long as the percentage of wool is pretty high. Pure cashmere felts too, but it usually takes a few washes in hot water to get it done right.

I finished this just before we went away for our Christmas break to Wyoming, and I wore that sweater a lot. I can tell you that I don’t think I ever got a compliment on that sweater before, but I got so many compliments on it after I’d done this to it I was shocked.

So don’t throw that sweater out! Get creative.

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Quilted Sweater Baby Blanket

I practically killed myself getting this finished before I left on my trip, but here it is.

I am constantly scouring thrift stores and Goodwill for old wool or cashmere sweaters. If they won’t fit any of my family, into the wash they for felting. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 trips through the wash to get them felted really well. Once a sweater is felted, you can cut it without worry that it will unravel on you. This works best with only 100% (or pretty close to it) wool or cashmere. I’ve got boxes of sweaters that I’ve bought at thrift stores, some felted and some not, waiting for the time to make all of the projects I’ve got in mind.

I wanted to make a quilted blanket with smaller pieces of some of these sweaters. I found this great pinwale corduroy recently, and my sister and I came up with a good color scheme to go with it. Using mostly the arms of sweaters, saving the larger body pieces for other projects, I cut the sweaters into 6″ squares using a cutting mat and a rotary cutter. If I had some smaller pieces, I made a few that were 3-1/4″ x 6″ and patched two pieces together to make a square just for something a little different in the quilt.

6" squares of felted sweaters.

I’m extremely fortunate to have a sewing machine called an overlock. I’ve been wanting it for years and finally got it for Christmas last year. However, if you don’t happen to have one of these, I think this project is still possible. If the sweaters are properly felted, unraveling shouldn’t be a concern. You can either stitch the pieces together using a large zigzag stitch, or you can just seam them together with a sewing machine. For demonstration purposes though, I’ll show you how I did it with my overlock.

I laid out the general pattern I wanted on a large clean surface. I was careful to lay them out in alternating directions so that the weave switched from diagonal to horizontal every other strip. This should help to keep the blanket from stretching out. I was also careful not to have the same pattern next to each other; no two cables butted up next to each other in the same strip. Then I sewed together one strip at a time, overlapping two squares and joining them. I was careful to always keep the seams going in the same direction.

Lay out the general pattern/color scheme you'd like on a large, clean surface.

Stitch two 6" squares together, with one piece slightly overlapping the other.

A finished strip of sweater pieces.

Sewing the fabrics together may cause a little stretching, so straighten out any uneven edges with a straight-edge and your rotary cutter.

Lay out all the strips together to give your design a final once-over. Make sure all the colors in each strip work with the strip they’ll be joined with. Some juggling may be necessary. Then, again keeping the seams all going in the same direction, I joined the strips together, one at a time, to make the quilt.

Lay out the strips together, making sure all the colors are working with colors in the next strip. Some juggling may be necessary.

Pen the strips together, overlapping one strip slightly with the other.

Sew the strips together.

Continue sewing the strips together until you’ve got the top of your quilt completed.

The finished sweater quilt top

This is what the backside looks like when it's done with an overlock machine.

Then I joined the top with the corduroy fabric, and I used wool batting in between. I used this batting on Sia’s Baby Blanket and really loved it. 

Cut batting slightly smaller than the sweater quilt top.

Turn the quilt right side out.
I used a fairly thin yarn and made french knots at each square to join the quilt and prevent any shifting of the batting. I made a knot in the doubled yarn on a needle and came down through the top at the “intersection” points. Come right back up with the thread to the top, being careful that you get right at that intersection point again. wrap the thread around the needle a few times, and holding the thread taught, came down close to the same point that you’re already gone through at the bottom. Pull the thread gently, still holding the thread taught, and you’ll form a french knot! Click here for a good tutorial on what I’m trying to explain. You want a really big knot, so do wrap the yarn around the needle 3 or 4 times! At the back, stitch around the threads already there once or twice, then make a knot and snip the yarn, leaving about 1/3″.

French knots at the corners throughout the quilt.

I love the way it came out. It’s a great project, and would make a great baby gift, or Christmas gift. Mine measures 40″ x 43″ finished, but you can make it any size you want. Let me know if you try it, or if you have any questions about how I made this one.

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The Quote Scarf #2

Amanda’s home from college for the weekend! I gave her the quote scarf I made, so I got her to model it for you.

And this afternoon I finally finished the Quote Scarf I was working on for myself. This one is 100% viscose, and while I love the way it drapes, and I love the way it came out, it was a pain in the neck to do. The fabric is so fine and and is a pretty open weave, so I ended up doing it in more of a dot pattern than being able to draw the letters on.

Quote Scarf #2. This one is mine, but Amanda doesn't mind having her picture taken.

For a tutorial on how to do one for yourself or as a gift, click here.

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CFG’s Version of The Quote Scarf

We Are Owls Quote Scarf

On Pinterest a few weeks ago was this great quote scarf by We Are Owls with a brief tutorial on how to make your own by Stamps 48. I loved the way it looked.

I call my oldest daughter, Amanda, The Quote Queen; she loves inspirational quotes. She is known at college for always having the proper inspirational quote for any occasion, and this year even painted one wall in her living room with chalkboard paint so she can constantly write down her quotes. As soon as I saw this I knew I had to make one for her with some of her favorite quotes.

The Stamps 48 tutorial only used the really large-tipped fabric pens called Tee Juice. When I went to the art store there were all kinds of choices in tip size, so I bought one of each size. I also had some old fabric markers from earlier projects that I might be able to use. She also drew her quotes on her scarf free hand, and I didn’t think my script was scarf-worthy, so I thought printing them out would work better for me. I also thought printing the quotes in different fonts and sizes might make the scarf look more like that beautiful We Are Owls scarf.

These would make good Christmas gifts for a couple of people, so I hopped on Amazon.com and found a cream-colored 100% viscose scarf for $6.99 that I liked the look of and ordered, and also found Pashmina scarfs that got decent reviews for $9.99 that were available in tons of colors. I ordered one in cream, violet and olive green. Of course, being the completely impatient person needing immediate self-gratification, I couldn’t wait the few days for these to arrive, so I ran over to Lord & Taylors with my sales coupon and got a really nice wool scarf for $27. This is the one I planned on using for Amanda’s gift.

I went onto Amanda’s quote board that she has on Pinterest and pulled off some of my favorite quotes. I typed these out in Microsoft Word using different script fonts in varying large sizes (200-360 point is what I used).  When I printed them out the text was so large that I had to cut and paste the quotes together. I used a ruler to make sure they were all straight. Then I took a couple pieces of parchment paper (but you could use waxed paper), and taped them together to make a long piece the same length and width as the scarf. To this I taped the quotes in an arrangement that I liked, trying to evenly mix up fonts and sizes around on the template. Over this I laid the scarf, and secured it with masking tape around the edges in quite a few places, tucking it under and taping the scarf to the template rather than to the work surface.

Tape the quotes to the parchment (or waxed paper) template surface.

Lay scarf over template and tape around the edges, tucking tape under and taping the scarf to the template rather than to the work surface.

I would advise you to find a fabric scrap that is similar to your scarf to practice with your pen(s) on before you start your scarf.

Practice on a scrap of similar fabric before you start.

Now I found it difficult to see the quotes through the scarf fabric for the first wool one I made, although I am having no trouble seeing them through the viscose one I’m working on now. The Pashmina one is next so I can’t say about that yet. If you are having trouble seeing your quotes through your scarf, I’ll give you this idea I thought up. I’ve showed it before, but it’s so handy I’ll show it again.

Crafty Farm Girl’s Home-Made Light Table: Take a glass shelf out of your refrigerator, 4 same-sized cans out of your pantry, and a work light of some sort.

Place the 4 cans under each corner of the shelf, and the work light under the shelf, and you have an instant light table.

I use this make-shift light table all the time for craft projects, (although I have put a real light table on my Christmas list). Fortunately for me I have a spare fridge in the basement so I can grab the shelf most of the time without causing a huge refrigerator problem. Any fairly thick piece of glass or old window will work though if you can’t spare a refrigerator shelf.

Lay the scarf on the light table if you are having trouble seeing to trace the quotes through the fabric.

Finished Scarf (or most of it - I couldn't fit it all in one frame...my arms aren't long enough.)

Now some of the pens I used said they did not need to be heat-set, but some did. I figured it wouldn’t hurt either way. Using a thin dishtowel over the scarf and with my iron set on high heat, I carefully ironed it according to the pen’s directions.

That’s it! I love the way it came out. I hope Amanda loves it too. Of course if she checks my blog before she comes home for Thanksgiving on Wednesday this won’t be much of a surprise anymore.

Here are a few tips I can offer having done 2 on 2 different fabrics:

• The wool was very “fuzzy” to write on, and I had to keep a paper towel in my hand to constantly pull fuzz off of the pen. I did not love working with the wool fabric

• The Viscose fabric is so thin and gauzy that it is, also, difficult to work with, but in a different way than the wool. For this fabric I have found “tapping” the letters out in almost a dot-pattern has been the most effective way to do it.

• For both fabrics I did need to hold the fabric as I was writing, even with it taped to the template.

• If you use the really big-tipped Tee-Juice fabric markers, practice first. These work by squeezing the ink out as you are writing, and you need to figure out the correct pressure first on some scrap fabric. Also, you will need a really big font with this pen. Practice on a test-piece before doing it on the scarf. I made this mistake and had to free-hand the quote because the print was too small and it is the only part on the scarf that does not look good.  All this said though, on both fabrics these markers were probably the easiest, and fastest, pen to write with.

I hope this has inspired you to try one for yourself. If you make one, send me a photo! I’d love to see it.

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